357’s, but it really shines, with 158 grain. Sure, there’s the 10 foot fireball and the dust-tornadoes it sends down range.FUN! But I think the shorter recoil moment helps it’s accuracy, out to 25 yards, never shot it further, but i would think 50 is a stretch. This 2 1/2” 19-5 is best of my bunch, when it comes to shooting 158 grain. These two here are the ones I shoot best, because I shoot them the most. My 6” 27-2 may well be the most accurate of them all, from a Ransom rest or a bench, who knows? Maybe it’s one of the 28-2 4”-ers, or the 686-6+ 6”. Certainly, some guns are built to be more accurate, but it’s the mental and physical human interface, with the tool that is most critical to me, when I’m trying to put holes in paper 25 yards away. Never shot a Korth, or Dan Wesson.Īs others have noted, the human being holding the gun is the biggest accuracy component. 357 store bought target ammo down range (yes it’s time to start reloading). Preface: I am just a guy, who likes to shoot, having no formal training, but having launched several thousand rounds (7000-ish, WAG) of. 38 Special tends to be a little easier to develop for target load purposes.īut, at the end of the day, you have to become a really good revolver shooter before you stop being the limiting factor in accuracy. Most folks looking for accuracy are more likely to shoot a. 22 LR load than it is to find or develop a really accurate. 22 LR makes it an excellent round for training purposes when the goal is developing the sight alignment, grip and trigger control needed for long range accuracy. 38 Special), so most shooters will shoot a Model 17 a lot more than a Model 19 or Model 66, and the almost zero recoil with. When the recoil is significant, you need even more practice and some additional care not to start anticipating the shot.22 LR is a lot less expensive than. You need a lot of practice with a revolver to be really good with it from an unsupported position. The actual differences are in terms of the load and the recoil. I've never compared them shooting from a rest. That however is based on shooting from a standing position at targets from 25 to 100 yards. My 6" Model 19 and 6" Model 66 both compare well to my Model 17-3 and K-22 Pre-Model 17. If I was a serious hunter, I might also choose differently. If I were a serious IHMSA guy, my choice might be different. If I was going spendy, somthing like an old Willi Korth, Manurhin MR73, or maybe a Freedom Arms would be nice.
So a classic S&W N frame tends to be fully capable of my needs. Occasionally get a nice surprise or two, occasionally get a disappointment. I expect (hope for) 6" groups, at most, with nice circular spread and no keyholing. If I want to do serious benchrest testing, I'll do 100 yds at the outdoor range. I expect cloverleaf groups at 25 yds, or 1.5-3" at 50 yds. In fact, I don't even bother with jacketed bullets just cast bullets. It's gotta be something I can handle offhand.Īlso, I love handloading, and never buy factory ammo. I'm a Bullseye shooter, so I pass over "mini-rifles" such as 12" barrel revolvers with a scope and bipod, regardless of how well they shoot. It really depends on how you plan to use it, how you define accuracy, the loads to be used, and how capable you are of extracting that accuracy potential.
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